Before we left I never really thought of the differences between central and northern Australia. I had kind of just lumped them together under the term ‘out back’ but it is becoming clear that they are actually quite different areas. One difference is the climate. In the space of the last 3 days we have gone from freezing nights and moderately warm days, to hot and humid, and man its nice. Like a mild Brisbane summer.
Two weeks ago we were at Uluru, where the weather was not particularly kind. The days were just cold and overcast, which didn’t make for great Uluru viewing. Our first day there consisted of a morning of catchups – washing and shopping, as well as a coffee at the resort. In the afternoon we decided to take our first real look at ‘the rock.’ This involved a drive around, and a short walk to one of the few waterholes that dot the base. We also timed it so that we would be there at sunset, which is supposed to be quite spectacular… but not when its overcast, as it was. We are told that when the sun sets on the rock it gets a deeper and deeper red. For us it just got darker and darker until finally we couldn’t see it any more.
The next day was the same. We didn’t even bother getting up for the sunrise viewing – but went a little later. This time we did the Marla Walk, a guided walk that takes in some of the Aboriginal stories associated with the rock. It really was quite good, and gave a greater appreciation for some of the history and culture of Uluru. That afternoon we visited the cultural center, and went for a drive to Kata Tjuta, or “The Olgas”, which are more big rocks in the desert. We spent much of that day with new friends Al and Steph, they cooked us dinner that night which was really nice, and we also made plans to travel on with them to Kings Canyon the next day.
Finally, on our last morning, the weather broke. Steph banged on the camper door at 6am to tell us it was clear and that they were heading out to Uluru for the sunrise. We went as well. It was busy, and cold, but worth the early morning for. Finally, we got to see some sun on the rock. Tracy took about 500 photos.
Later that morning we packed up and headed the 400kms to Kings Canyon, which is kind of another big rock in the desert. Well, not quite, it’s a canyon in the desert with really high walls that make it look like a big rock. The following day we went into the canyon, and Tracy took the boys on a walk up the middle of the canyon, and then took Tane on a climb up the side. He did really well and was very proud of himself for the accomplishment.
That night (after catching a sunset on the walls of the canyon) we were enticed into the bar / restaurant with the claim that it held some of the best family entertainment in the outback. We had pizzas for dinner (hugely inflated prices, but so was everything there), and then the floor show began. It consisted of a husband and wife team, he sang and played guitar, she… well, she was the real entertainment. They got the kids up playing instruments and singing, and even managed to get Tracy and Steph up there as the Mums of the kids ( they thought that at least one of ours must have belonged to her), but Tracy got out of it when Kezia got upset. Great that we’ve taught her to cry on cue. It was a great night.
The next morning was another pack up. As we packed up we realized that 2 liters of milk were missing from our outdoor fridge. There were two culprit options… thieves, or dingoes. There were heaps of dingoes at this camp ground, but the way it was in the fridge makes me lean towards backpackers wanting a free meal. Two days later we realized that also missing was half a loaf of banana bread, which was baked on site at the Yulara resort (Uluru) and is very delicious. So to the dirty back packer who stole the bread and milk… I hope you choke on it. (And I mean that in a very loving, Christian way)
That day we separated from Al and Steph for a bit, they wanted to head up a 4WD track that was not recommended for trailers. We took the Merenie Loop, which heads towards the West MacDonnell ranges via a dirt road. This 200km stretch was the most corregated we have done, and ended up with a lot of dust in the camper. But the result was great, it brought us to Palm Valley, in the Finke Gorge National Park. At first we were a bit concerned about the campground, as 20 odd school kids were about to set up, but they were really well behaved, and we had a great outlook from the camper. The next day we did the 5km road (if you can call it that) into Palm Valley itself. It took about 45 minutes to do this road, and had some interesting patches. The valley itself was really cool. The red cabbage palms are only found here in the world, and there are no other palms for 100’s of kms. So its kind of unique.
That afternoon we were joined by Al and Steph again, and they showed us how they use their camp oven on the fire. It got us all inspired.
The next day we parted company again, backtracked 50kms up the Merenie loop, and across into the West MacDonnell’s. Our plan was to stay at a place called Ormiston Gorge, but when we got there it wasn’t as nice as we believed it would be, and the camp ground wasn’t suitable for campertrailors. So we headed off. 10 minutes down the road we blew, and shredded, a tire on the camper. It was then that we discovered that my spanner set was not quite large enough to get the spare wheel off (I know, I should have checked) but the first car to stop was a family we had met 2 nights earlier. So we caught up on the side of the road, changed the tire and headed off again. Our problem was that it was noon on Friday. The original plan had been to stay in the ranges for another day or so, then into Alice Springs to set up for 5-7 days. But that would have us arriving on the weekend, needing to replace a tire on the camper, which we would the have to put down to take to a tire shop on Monday. So we decided to go straight to Alice that afternoon, and get the tire seen to. It worked out well. We got both replaced (it turned out they were 10 years old, as old as the camper), and into the caravan park before sunset. The kids enjoyed their first McDonalds, and we our first Thai takeaway, in quite a while.
Alice Springs really appealed to us. Maybe it was because we hadn’t been in a ‘town’ for a while, but it was really pleasant. We got to go out for coffee, do some shopping, and even found an awesome Vietnamese restaurant just out of town. We also did a day trip back to the West MacDonnell ranges to catch up on all the things we had missed there, and an afternoon / evening trip 100kms south to Rainbow Valley national park, where the sun sets on a big rock in the desert… Another day trip was a visit to Desert Park, where they have created 3 types of desert environments in a contained area, with birds of prey shows, and Aboriginal survival talks, and a nocturnal animal house. It was really worth the visit.
It was also in Alice that we caught up with Al and Steph once again, and also said good bye to them. They are now headed towards Broome up the Tanami. There is a slim chance we might catch them in Darwin, but we’ll wait and see. But we also made good friends with our neighbors, Nick and Tracey, who are traveling with their 4 kids, the youngest two are twins, in between Tane and Ky’s ages. The kids had a ball with them and we hope to catch up with them further down the track.
Finally, after 6 days, it was time to head off again, really pushing north now. We traveled every day for the next 4 days. The first day brought us 400kms to Devil’s Marbles, which are lots of big rocks in the desert, and staying the night meant we could get another sunset and sunrise and 500 more photos. The next day was a short 100 km drive to Tennant Creek, which was a lot bigger than we expected. It meant we were in and set up by mid morning, just in time for a coffee… but the only decent coffee shop was sadly closed. That night we joined the camp ground entertainment, Jimmy the Bushtucker man, who tells stories, poems, and cooked up a roo tail in the fire. Tane was pretty game with it, going back for a second helping. It tasted like fatty roast lamb.
The next day we did another 400kms to Daly Waters, which is really just a pub in the middle of nowhere, but extremely popular. They do a BBQ dinner with a show, and the 50 powered sites were all full by 4pm. It was there that we noticed that the weather was getting much warmer. It was humid, and the night was kind of balmy. The evening was great fun, the food good and the entertainment not bad either. We also met up again with 2 families from Melbourne who are doing a 5 week trip that took them to Camerons Corner, then down to Maree, up to Darwin and now back down to Mt Isa and back to Melbourne. Its almost what we are doing in 8 months, in 5 weeks. Crazy. It was the third time we have seen them and great to catch up.
The next morning we packed up and traveled 160kms further north to Mataranka, Rainbow Srings, where we are right now. On the way on this last leg we stopped off at Frans Café, basically in the middle of nowhere. Fran is quite a character. She was rushed so she just popped your order out the door, yelled in your general direction and made you get it yourself.
We are here for 2 nights, and its nice not to be on the move again today. Already yesterday, and again today, we have enjoyed a swim in the springs, which are kind of like tepid bath water, but actually very refreshing. They have made a nice pool out of the area, with a shallow end for kids. Last night they had more entertainment at the bar, which was kind of pleasant.
From here we plan to continue north to Kakadu and then Litchfield, and finally Darwin. We are skipping Kathrine and plan to hit it on the way back down in another month. Sadly, we have hit June today, which means… well we still have lots of holiday left.